Croatia
Our guides in Croatia.
Croatia · city
Dubrovnik
Sleep within walking distance if you can take stairs and outside the zone if you cannot. Walk the walls first thing or in the last two hours, never in the middle of a two-ship day, and check the port’s own schedule before you pick which morning. Give the cable car an evening: from the top at 400 metres the sun goes down into open water almost every day of the year, which the seaward walls cannot do between mid-April and late August. Buy Lokrum for a half day and watch the 19:00 last boat. Book one of the nine Michelin-listed tables and eat one meal at the Bib Gourmand, which is Bosnian and costs a third as much. Then take a boat somewhere: the Elafiti islands for a swim, or Cavtat for a lunch on a waterfront that is not full.
Croatia · road trip
Split to Dubrovnik Road Trip
Two nights in Split for the palace, the cellars and Marjan hill. Collect the car, climb to Klis fortress, and take the coast road through Omis to the Makarska Riviera. Up to the Biokovo skywalk on a timed slot, down through the Neretva delta, over the Peljesac bridge to Ston for the walls and the oysters. West along the peninsula through Dingac wine country to the Orebic ferry and a night in Korcula. Then two hours to Dubrovnik, the car handed back, and the city on foot: the walls at opening, Lokrum by boat, Mount Srd at sunset.