South Korea
Our guides in South Korea.
South Korea · island
Jeju Island
Climb Seongsan Ilchulbong for the sunrise on a weekday, 5,000 won, gates open at least 45 minutes before dawn, then eat abalone porridge in the haenyeo house in Ojo-ri. Take the Udo ferry from Seongsan, 10,500 won return, and ride a bicycle round the island, because your car cannot come. Walk the reopened kilometre of Manjanggul, closed on the first Wednesday of the month. Book the Hallasan summit section at visithalla.jeju.go.kr from the first working day of the month before, or walk the Yeongsil trail without a booking. Give the south a day: Jeongbang falls, which drop straight into the sea, the Jusangjeolli columns and the Seogwipo Olle market for hairtail. End the days in the west, at Suwolbong or on the Aewol coast, where the sun goes into the water on every day of the year. Eat black pork once at Donsadon in the city and once anywhere else.
South Korea · city
Seoul
Stay in or near Myeongdong or Jongno for the palaces and easy transit, spend a morning in Bukchon Hanok Village, an afternoon in Hongdae or Seongsu for contemporary Seoul, and a full day on a DMZ tour if history interests you.